North Macedonia is one of Europe’s most under-rated countries. Its capital, Skopje, is a city that tends to evoke strong reactions from people. You either really love it or you hate it.
It is a city full of quirks that are initially hard to get your head around.
When you first arrive, the city seems grand and elaborate, with monuments on nearly every corner. The sheer number of statues scattered around the city centre surprises most first time visitors. However, if you take a moment to look closer, you’ll start to understand why Skopje is often called Europe’s capital of kitsch. Most of the grand attractions of the city centre are less than a decade old and many resemble other great landmarks around Europe.
In 1963, a devastating earthquake destroyed most of Skopje’s historical buildings.
In recent years, Skopje has embraced a bold new look through a controversial project known as Skopje 2014 which has sought to redefine the city. The neo-classical architecture, grand monuments, and the countless statues you see today are all part of this modern reinvention. However, the project has been riddled with accusations of money laundering and corruption revealed by a phone-tapping scandal that rocked the small nation of North Macedonia.
Skopje today has replicas of Paris’ Arc de Triumph and Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate only a few minutes walk from each other. You might feel you can skip the grand European tour this summer and visit Skopje instead. Or more likely, you will feel that the city’s attempt to give tourists what they want has brazenly missed the mark.
Whatever your first impression is, Skopje has a distinctive charm. This blend of old and new, real and replica, is what shapes the city’s eclectic vibe. It continues to fascinate and divide visitors and locals alike. I visited Skopje as part of a one week North Macedonia road trip. Being a small city, you can see most of the main sites and get a feel for its excellent restaurant scene in just one day. Here is an itinerary for how to squeeze the most into your one day in Skopje!
How to Get Around in Skopje
Skopje is compact and extremely walkable. Most of the attractions are located within a few blocks of each other either side of the Vardar River that runs through the city centre. If you are staying in North Macedonia for more than a few days, hiring a car is the best way to explore the country. Taking a trip to Lake Ohrid in the south of the country is a must do while visiting North Macedonia.
If you are on a short city break, there are local buses and taxis available to get around in Skopje. When using taxis in North Macedonia, be sure to agree on a price before departing. Some taxis in Skopje are un-metered and taxi drivers have a bit of a reputation for taking tourists for a ride. Pun intended.
How to Spend the Morning in Skopje
In the morning of your one day in Skopje, explore the recent additions to Skopje city centre. Starting on the south side of the river, have breakfast at one of Skopje’s best restaurants. Pelister Restaurant is located at the end of the pedestrianised Macedonia Street with an uninterrupted view of the iconic monument to Alexander the Great.
Skopje has a vibrant café culture and Macedonians have a great appreciation for both Turkish and Italian style coffee.
Take a Guided Walking Tour
After breakfast, I recommend taking a guided tour of downtown Skopje. Taking a guided tour with a local can completely change your perspective of Skopje. I spent my first day there walking around looking at the monuments by myself and was left feeling pretty confused. And that’s because Skopje itself seems confused. It is really hard to get an accurate gauge of the identity of Skopje unless you have a knowledgeable local to break it down for you.
A guided tour will take you to all the main sites of the downtown. If you decide to do it alone, here are a few of the must-dos and some information to help understand them better.
Mother Teresa Memorial House and Museum
Skopje is proud to call Mother Teresa one of their own. The Nobel laureate and Catholic saint was born in Skopje in 1910. The Mother Teresa Memorial House is built on the site where she was baptised. The Memorial House has a small exhibition that tells the story of Mother Teresa’s life from her childhood in Skopje to her death in Kolkata, India.
A little further down near Macedonia Square, you can find a plaque that marks where the house where Mother Teresa was born once stood.
Search For the Quirkiest Statues and Monuments
Possibly the most entertaining thing to do in Skopje is to simply wander around and discover the statues and monuments that embellish the city centre. Some of the best monuments are around Woman-Warrior Park. The grand Triumph Arch of Macedonia will look familiar to anyone that’s been to Paris, but there are even statues of shoe-shines and beggars dotted along Skopje’s streets. Spend some time exploring the waterfront and you’ll be surprised at what you might find!
Stone Bridge
The only remaining original bridge in the city centre, this well-preserved stone bridge is over 500 years old. Its simple arches stand in contrast to the Skopje Art Bridge and the Eye Bridge, both of which are more elaborate and brash.
Stone Bridge is an important reminder of the history of Skopje. It is also a great vantage point to spot other things that look wacky and out of place along the waterfront. For instance, the collection of pirate ships despite North Macedonia being a landlocked country and the Vardar River being too shallow to be navigable.
Lunch
Skopje has a great culinary scene and you will be spoiled for choice for restaurant options.
If you are looking to try some of the local Macedonian cuisine, a great place to start is Kolektiv Restaurant. This casual restaurant has outside seating so you can people watch as you fill up on local ajvar, cheese and traditional clay pot casseroles. Order the traditional board if you want to sample the best selection of local foods.
How to Spend the Afternoon in Skopje
In the afternoon, cross Stone Bridge and explore the Ottoman-era old town of Skopje. The winding streets, bazaar and fortress of the old town make it feel like you are in a completely different city.
The Macedonian Orthodox Church of the Ascension of Jesus
Although from the outside this church may appear unassuming, this is one of the most important religious sites in Skopje.
The courtyard of the church is free to enter and filled with pomegranate trees. It is a great place to escape the bustle of the streets outside.
The courtyard also contains the sarcophagus of the revolutionary martyr Gotse Delčev, who led an uprising against Ottoman rule. Delčev is considered a national hero and it is common to see people visiting his grave to show their respects.
Visit the Ottoman Bazaar
A perfect early afternoon activity in Skopje is strolling the streets of Skopje Bazaar. Once the largest bazaar in the Balkans outside of Istanbul, today the streets of the Old Bazaar are an eclectic mix of antique stores, mosques, cafes and restaurants.
Spend Sunset at Kale Fortress
By far the best place to spend sunset in the city, Kale Fortress sits on a hill on the outskirts of the old town. The fortress dates back to the 10th century but is mostly in ruins today. It is best enjoyed for the views it provides over the old town and into the hills beyond the city.
Dinner
After sunset head back to the restaurants around the Old Bazaar to grab dinner. Old House Restaurant is located just outside of the bazaar area in a quieter street. It is a traditional restaurant serving up fabulous local Balkan cuisine. If you only have one day in Skopje, visiting Old House Restaurant is a must.
The food in Macedonia in general is excellent and the friendly staff at Old House will help you choose something delicious and to your tastes. My personal favourite is the Old House Pot.
How to Spend the Evening in Skopje
For a small city, Skopje has a vibrant nightlife with options for most styles. The Old Bazaar is a good place to sit outside and enjoy an evening glass of wine or brave the local spirit rakija.
For the partiers, there nightclubs and even pub crawls. For those that prefer an early evening, be sure to take a night time stroll through the Old Town and along the Vardar River before bed. Skopje adopts a completely different vibe at night.
Spending the Night?
As a capital city, Skopje has accommodation options to suit all budgets and styles. The most common type of accommodation in North Macedonia is the apartment. Apartments are generally attached to a family home, come with a private room, bathroom and kitchenette and are very comfortable.
I stayed at City Lux Apartments while in Skopje and it was perfect. The location is right on Macedonia Street, walking distance to everything, with a cute balcony to sit and watch the world go by below.
Author’s Box: Liza is a freelance travel writer with a passport stamped in over 80 countries, crafting travel guides and itineraries that venture beyond the typical tourist trails. From seeking out hidden gems to indulging in local culinary delights, she loves to bring the world to her readers. After many trips to Eastern Europe, it is always the lakes and mountains of North Macedonia that keep calling her back
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